La Cordillera de Los Andes forms a spine of high
mountains that separates both eastern and western South
America. In the north of Chile this mountain chain
flattens into a high plateau (called the "Altiplano")
where the highest points exceed 5000 meters above sea
level. The only other place in the world where human
settlements are found at that altitude is Tibet. This
makes the Altiplano an extremely attractive place for
trecking and adventure tourism.
There are three main roads that lead to the chilean
altiplano, and each one reaches a bolivian frontier post.
Inland from Antofagasta and San Pedro de Atacama it
climbs to the frontier post of Ollague. From Iquique and
Huara the road climbs to Colchane and inland from Arica
and Putre you can reach the frontier posts of Tambo
Quemado or Visviri.
There are lots of roads and ancient routes from the Inca
era (the Camino del Inca is still operative in several
places) that connect all the small villages in the
altiplano and pre cordillera.
The best choice is through Arica, because it hasthe only
fully paved road to La Paz in Bolivia, and has the most
points of interest to tourists. The road from Antofagasta
passes through the attractive San Pedro de Atacama and
Valle de la Luna but towards the frontier is very
inhospitable and rarely visited. The road from Iquique is
more trade oriented and is frequently used by trucks
carrying goods from the Iquique Free Zone (ZOFRI) to
Bolivia.
Points of interest
From Arica you can reach Poconchile, Zapahuira, Socoroma,
Putre (the biggest altiplano town), Pacollo, Chucullo,
the beautiful Lago Chungará (national park) and the
small lakes of Cotacotani.
Click here and you will see a detailed map with the
inner routes of this area. Full screen view (F11 in MS
Explorer) is recommended.
Deveating from the main road you can find Copaquilla,
Chapiquiña, Pachama, Belén, Saxamar, Ticnamar, small
towns of the interior and the Salar de Surire.
Inland from Iquique is the ghost town of Humberstone, in
the middle of Atacama Desert, and the villages of Huara,
Pachica, Laonsana, Queldine, Chusmisa and Mamiña thermal
waters, Puchuldisa, Enquelga, Isluga and Colchane are
near the border.
Traveling from Antofagasta the road passes through the
villages of Baquedano, Carmen Alto, Sierra Gorda, Calama,
San Pedro de Atacama and Toconao to reach the border post
of Guaytilquina (frontier with Argentina). Returning to
Calama and climbing to north you pass through Chiu Chiu,
the Salar de Ascotán to the frontier with Bolivia at
Ollagüe.
First time travelers to the Altiplano are advised to
start from Arica, visiting the towns around the
international road Arica-La Paz and visit the Lago
Chungará (there are one day tours from Arica to Lago
Chungará at bargain prices). For those most seasoned
travelers there is a circumnavigation road through the
Chilean Altiplano but the route is not paved and
depending on weather it may not be passable..
Fiestas Patronales (religious festivals)
If you are looking for a more in depth knowledge of the
altiplano festivals of the small hidden villages the best
time to visit is during the festival of the patron saint.
Each small village has an annual festival day to
celebrate it's patron saint.
You can explore the altiplano with very little money
using the buses of "La Paloma" normally used by
locals to access the villages of the interior. Buses are
comfortable and you can make Putre the operative base.
Calendar of main religious festival.
15 August: Fiesta de Asunta, Putre
25 July: Fiesta San Santiago, Belén
14 September: Fiesta de San Lorenzo, Tarapacá
First Sunday of October: Fiesta de La Virgen del Rosario,
Las Peñas
8 December: Fiesta chica de Las Peñas
16 July: Fiesta de La Tirana
14 September: Fiesta del Señor de los Milagros Locumba (Tacna-Perú)
The aymara language
As in other languages, a lot of common aymara surnames
have significance, for example: Mamani means falcon or
cernicalus, Colque means money and Humire means a strong
drinker.
Some aymara place names are: Chacalluta: brigde over the
Lluta river (chaca=brigde), Surire : place of ñandúes,
Guallatire (Wallatire): place of gooses (ire=place of),
Cotacotani (Qutagutani): place where small lakes are,
Pukarani: ceremonial place, Umallani: where there is
water. (uma=water) Murmuntani: where liquens exist Qulla
(Cuya): medicine, Pintatani: red, colored (pintata=colour),
Qullchani (Colchane): where grass exists.
Satellite eyeballing
In the upper right
corner The Payachatas Volcanoes can be seen with Lago
Chungara not far bellow.
The image of the rough topography of the altiplano
explains why sometimes a few miles in the map can take
many hours to travel
Warning, driving
in the altiplano:
An engine check should be made to all carburated motor
vehicles prior to driving at altitude. If the engine
looses power in heavy climbs, take off the air filter.
If you drive off the paved road you MUST contact the
Carabineros in Poconchile or Putre prior to departure.
Remember that the period during January and February is
the main wet season with heavy rain and snow in the
altiplano (Invierno boliviano).
Prior to departure check on weather and road conditions
with the Carabineros at the Poconchile post or with CONAF-Arica
dialing 222856.
There are no gas stations on the roads. For a trip to
Lago Chungará you must fill the tank completely in Arica.
If you plan a larger trip you must carry additional
gasoline with you.
Always carry winter clothes like parkas and woolen socks,
also a hat to protect against the sun, sun block and
sunglasses. There are extremes of both hot and cold
weather at this altitude.
Avoid extreme exercise at high altitude because it is the
most common cause of "soroche" or altitude
sickness Do not drink carbonated beverages, just plain
water or juices. Avoid heavy meals.
If the car has mechanical problems on the road NEVER
leave it, wait inside until help comes, somebody will
stop.
When you return to Arica take note that you are
descending a very steep gradient and use low gears rather
than brakes, this point is not always appreciated because
there are few canyons so drivers tend to abuse the brakes.
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